Different types of welding rodes and how they are used

In this video we will you will see four of the basic types of welding rodes, these rodes will be found in most ever welding shop. As a student or someone that is just trying to learn more about welding it is improtant to know these four rodes and how they are used. Ever rode has the identifing numbers on the back of the rode. The first two numbers will identify the tensile strength, the next number would be for welding position( note: one means in all position and the number two means only in flat and horizonal). The last number will be for the flux type and current, for example using 7018: the 70=tensile strength, 1=welding position, and 8=flux type and current.

Tee-Joint in the Vertical Position (3F)

When welding the tee-joint in the vertical position while welding with the E7018 electrode, there is a few thing to keep in mind. First make sure that you have the proper safety equipment, helmet, safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves (cotton or leather), leather boots, and skull cap. The next step will be to look over area and welding machine, making sure the area is clean and clear, check electrode holder and ground for good connections and for frays in the leads. Take two pieces of mild steel (equal in size), they need to be 1/4 in to 1/2in in thickness. Clean both pieces and position one flat on the work surface and the other on its edge in the center of the other to form a upside down T. Turn on machine and tack weld pieces on both sides before welding. The amperage on welding machine will be about 80A to 130A for 1/8 7018 electrode, depending on the operator. After pieces are put together and machine is set position the piece in the vertical position were the weld seams are in the up and down position, then tack weld to the work table. (Note if the person is not familiar with the vertical position, they can position the pieces on a 45degree angle to get familiar with the position.) When beginning to weld start at the bottom with your rode pointing up away from your puddle, making sure you build a shelf large enough to support the bead as it progresses up the joint. There are many different ways to move the rode tip, but the side to side motion and the half moon works best for me, keep a constant arc gap (about 1/8in from base metal) and travel speed. When finished chip slag and brush, and if there is need of multiple passes it might be good to use a grinder to smooth out and clean corners of slag. If your are attempting this weld or have welded in this position, did you have any problems and what were they?